convert to ss Options

[Chef Shoes]

i acquired an old townsend rigid mtb and mate suggested i convert to ss or even fixie

however its a 7sp, so whats the easiest and cheapest way of converting it?

ive a feeling the frame is a bit large but the tyres are ideal for commuting so im going to use the bike as donor for my giant rincon and poss convert that instead

the giant is 8sp if that helps

thanks
dyf

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[:: Xiphon ::]

Cheapest?

1. Pick up a second hand SS kit (cog + spacers), from PB, SDH, STW, etc..

2. Use the rear mech as the tensioner (if you have one to use as a donor)

3. If possible, and funds allow, consider replacing the front biggest ring with a bashguard (to prevent oil, etc) from trashing your trousers/shoes/etc.

[Chef Shoes]

what teeth would you recommend out back and up front

mainly used for road commuting but might be tempted for some singletrack

[:: Xiphon ::]

what teeth would you recommend out back and up front

mainly used for road commuting but might be tempted for some singletrack

Take it off-road

Don't you have a road bike already, which could be converted to SS?

32:16 is a popular starting point.

[Chef Shoes]

i have 4 now, 2 are HT, the fs and the roadie bike

but the new acquisition has lugholes for mounting panniers so i can go to work without having a laptop rucksack and clothes on my back

[Chef Shoes]

The frame is 58cm and when I straddle it. There is no daylight between the twins and the top tube

Oh well at least I can nick the tyres, clean it then flog it I guess

[Freester]

Some great advice at Charlie The Bike Monger, an amusing read at times. You can also get conversion kits from him.

I would say 32/16 for off road. I am running 42/16 on road at the moment. Seems to be OK in the short / sharp Dorset hills at least.

[Chef Shoes]

nice one freester thanks for the info!

would any spacer kit fit the cassette?

obviously using them to align the sprocket with the front crank.

what would you do regarding the use of a triple crank up front? would you remove the bottom two or use the middle ring? ive not counted the teeth on the front to know what they are yet though

[Chef Shoes]

this looks like it would do a good job
http://www.bikerumor.com/2011/01/07/found-...Bike+Rumor+RSS)

[Freester]

Sorry for the delay in getting back...

would any spacer kit fit the cassette?

Pretty sure the spacer kits work for 7/8 and 9 speed. Drop Charlie a line and ask if you are not sure....

obviously using them to align the sprocket with the front crank.

Yup

what would you do regarding the use of a triple crank up front? would you remove the bottom two or use the middle ring? ive not counted the teeth on the front to know what they are yet though

Depends on the teeth number completely. Guessing big ring is around 42/44 and middle ring is 32? If you remove the other rings you will need some shorter chainring bolts. The conversion kits usually come with these.

this looks like it would do a good job
http://www.bikerumor.com/2011/01/07/found-...Bike+Rumor+RSS)

Mmm. Dont know anyone who uses one of these. Personally being old fashioned sort of guy I'd trust spacers better. And they are cheaper

[Mick]

If you are using the back wheel off the Townsend it's probably got a screw on freewheel so spacers won't be need just something like this. If you shop around you should be able to get one for a few quid

[Chef Shoes]

its a bolt axle not skewer, and as to regards to shifting the freewheel i havent had a look tbh, the bike needs a good de-grease as its minging but ive sat on it and it really feels like a commute/town bike (sit fairly upright)

the bars are one piece curved shaped like "bullhorn bars" (i had to do a spot of googling to find out what they are)

but i think mick's option looks a good idea because if the freewheel is knackered bearing-wise this would negate that problem.

cheers mick, ill see if i can find out today, once i can work out how to remove the freewheel

[Chef Shoes]

its a std shimano cassette which requires a removal tool and whip
i DID have both but the tool has gone walkies
removed the mechs and shifters, looks nicer already
gave it a pressure wash today though and half the teeth are either missing or well worn..
but ive a question here..
can i still use the existing triple crank and just have a big ring on it, and if so do i need to get a shorter bb axle?
or can i keep it as it is and just have the wheel cog further out towards the frame and inline?
i do believe the removal tool i have/had is this one
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models....mp;ModelID=1056
which is great except for when you have a bolt axle not QR like my other bikes

bum

[Chef Shoes]

bought this today
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=STRK:MEWNX:IT

and with the gear chart, going to opt for 16 or maybe 17 but they are cheap enough on crc to have a selection

[scooter1969]

Hi There,

I have a question for the wise and experienced out there!

I have just built an On-One Scandalm inot a single speed ( i previously used a Saracen Transverse frame) allthe components came from the saracen including the chain and tensioner.

On building the bike up it appears to run fine, however on steep inclines the chain appears to pull to the outside of the bike attempt to ride the sidewall of the tensioner ( Gussett batchelor) before dropping back onto the tensioner this feels as if the gears are skipping, with no gears to skip!

I've changed the tensioner as i thought it may have worn, though with a unit of the same make and model.

The setup worked fine on the saracen, the chain appears straight, the tensioner appears level i cans see why when driving it pulls out of true. when the bike is upside down and pedaled backwards the chain runs true but put it into drive and it pulls across to the outside of the bike.

I've tried bending one of the tensioners about to stop the chain moving about this just makes the pulling worse.

Any Ideas greatly recieved!!


Cheers

wayne

[Chef Shoes]

how tight is your skewer?

[scooter1969]

how tight is your skewer?

Hiya,

The skewer is tighter than a tight thing...

It's the same skewer that i was using before, the wheel dosent move at all ( the brake disk dosen't bind o catch)

The chain moves out of line under pressure. I was fettling about last night and it's exactly the same, i'm supposed to be doing the goldrush on it Sunday but may be walking the steep hills! ( great excuse anyway)

Any other suggestions??

Many Thanks

Wayne

[Chef Shoes]

the only other thing i can see is that you need to "sight" the chain, since you dont have the luxury of a mech, you need to ensure the chain is as straight as possible running from the crank to the cog.

if u have a spacer kit, use the spacers to make sure (after you've mounted the wheel and loosely mounted the chain) that by sight your chain is running true.

also ensure the chain is taught not tight, so its not slack but at the same time not as that that to cause it to prematurely stretch

[scooter1969]

Hiya,

Yeah the chain line is straight, that's the first thing ic checked, it actually pulls off centre under pressure, i rode the goldrush this weekend and it wasn't too bad but when you look back you can see the chain pulling over to one side out of true...

I may try a different type of tensioner and see how i get on??

Cheers

[Chef Shoes]

your cranks run true do they? or is the SS cog damaged

or even

is the cassette lock ring on tight enough plus enough spacers to jam the cog in its place?