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> Ghetto Tubeless Checklist
wildrnes
post Jan 28 2008, 01:34 PM
Post #1


Group: Validating
Joined: 19-September 07



20" innertube with car valve check
1l moulding latex 10.99 from art shop check
track pump check
arms of steel check

anything else i have forgotten?

and anyone got any hints....
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Gareth
post Jan 28 2008, 02:48 PM
Post #2


Group: Root Admin
Joined: 28-July 04



QUOTE(wildrnes @ Jan 28 2008, 01:34 PM) *
20" innertube with car valve check
1l moulding latex 10.99 from art shop check
track pump check
arms of steel check

anything else i have forgotten?

and anyone got any hints....

Loads, search the Forum for Ghetto.

The most important one is to do the first (bead mounting) inflation with the valve core REMOVED. Once the tyre is up on the rim walls it will stay there even when deflated then you can bung in the valve and re-inflate. This trick lets air in a lot faster and you need a lot of it!

Don't forget the rim tape, a double wrap of insulating tape is the lightest.

If the tyres are new and folding inflate them over night with some tubes in at high pressure to give them 'shape'.

There are lots more tips in the other threads. cool.gif

As you are not using Stans solution (which has fibres to plug larger holes) you will need the Weltite Rapid Tubeless repair kit to plug holes, piece of cake to use.


--------------------
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wildrnes
post Jan 28 2008, 02:53 PM
Post #3


Group: Validating
Joined: 19-September 07



ahhh will try with the valve core removed

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Jarl
post Jan 28 2008, 05:29 PM
Post #4


Group: Members
Joined: 12-November 06
From: Bath/Hampshire (uni/home)



QUOTE(wildrnes @ Jan 28 2008, 01:34 PM) *
anything else i have forgotten?


The tyre? wink.gif

Just remember you need some scissors to cut the innertube with (much easier with scissors than a knife)


--------------------
"Say something that you know they might attack you for"
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Gareth
post Jan 28 2008, 05:51 PM
Post #5


Group: Root Admin
Joined: 28-July 04



Agreed, although I still use a sharp blade to trim the excess once fitted. I like to leave about 5mm sticking out, this doesn't look as rubbish as it sounds and is barely noticable until pointed out. What it does mean is that if you wang the rim hard enough to damage the 'rim strip' (as happened to me once, I was experimenting with low pressure!) you can pull on the strip from the outside to help seal the damaged spot. It's no biggee but it saved my tubeless setup that day and I carried on with that one as it was until the tyre was worn out. cool.gif


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wildrnes
post Jan 29 2008, 10:15 PM
Post #6


Group: Validating
Joined: 19-September 07



well used garage to pump up tyre, but forgot to take the old valve center
better luck on thursday...
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Gareth
post Jan 30 2008, 11:13 PM
Post #7


Group: Root Admin
Joined: 28-July 04



QUOTE(wildrnes @ Jan 29 2008, 10:15 PM) *
well used garage to pump up tyre, but forgot to take the old valve center
better luck on thursday...

You forgot to take the valve with you? That's hillarious! biggrin.gif

So you had no problem 'airing' up the tyre then?
What tyre are you using? Remember Non-tubeless ready ones need lots of rocking and tipping to get the sealant all over the inside of the rather porous tyre (otherwise it will deflate in a few hours). It always amazes me that this works as 'soaping up the tyre and letting it dry' shows that most tyres have more perforation holes than a tea bag!


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*Neb*
post Feb 4 2008, 08:21 PM
Post #8


Group: Members
Joined: 7-January 08
From: The lovely lake district!



Calling all the latex experts....

Level Master Liquid Latex 5 Litre

Features...

* For use with self levelling floor compound.
* A premium grade compound featuring a polymeric, cementitious liquid latex.
* 5 Litre.


Its only 7 for 5 ltrs! I'm guessing its not pure latex, but anyone know if its suitable for tubeless?

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Tony F
post Feb 4 2008, 08:39 PM
Post #9


Group: Members
Joined: 16-November 04
From: West Lancs



QUOTE(*Neb* @ Feb 4 2008, 08:21 PM) *
Calling all the latex experts....

Level Master Liquid Latex 5 Litre

Features...

* For use with self levelling floor compound.
* A premium grade compound featuring a polymeric, cementitious liquid latex.
* 5 Litre.


Its only 7 for 5 ltrs! I'm guessing its not pure latex, but anyone know if its suitable for tubeless?


Its gonna take a bloody long time to use that lot up, at about 100ml per tyre.

Don't know if its suitable, but it does say its liquid latex... You could always fill a spare tyre with the stuff, then bin the casing (to save weight you see) and ride on a completely puncture-proof solid latex tyre.

Or would that be silly? wink.gif


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Q: How does he stay upright at that speed?
A: He doesn't. Well not always. And the consequences have been horrendous!
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Gareth
post Feb 4 2008, 09:41 PM
Post #10


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Joined: 28-July 04



I would say not! Surely the key word here is cementitious which means it sets solid. blink.gif


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*Neb*
post Feb 4 2008, 10:09 PM
Post #11


Group: Members
Joined: 7-January 08
From: The lovely lake district!



QUOTE(Gareth @ Feb 4 2008, 09:41 PM) *
I would say not! Surely the key word here is cementitious which means it sets solid. blink.gif


Well spotted!

I was thinking that it couldn't be the right stuff for that price anyway.

At least the tyres wouldn't go soft!

Cheers
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wildrnes
post Feb 6 2008, 10:53 AM
Post #12


Group: Validating
Joined: 19-September 07



how much of a pain in the arse are nobby nics

got them to seat and inflate so feeling really rather good (as i used a track pump)

took tyre off the rim
added latex

would it go up....


would it buggery


grrrrrrr
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Gareth
post Feb 6 2008, 06:19 PM
Post #13


Group: Root Admin
Joined: 28-July 04



You don't have to 'break the bead' to put solution in, I syringe it in to the valve stem once the core is removed (I use Schraeder but some Presta also have a removable valve). Most non-inflation issues are caused because the beads are pushed in to the middle at the valve stem, so the arir is not getting in to the tyre carcass. To open them apart squash the trye tread down over the valve area, this forces the beads apart and the air goes in to the tyre.


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1gearnoidea
post Feb 6 2008, 07:04 PM
Post #14


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Joined: 2-December 06
From: over here'...



a ratchet strap tied round the tyre/wheel helps making a good seal, if u cant get it to work by using your hand


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"boingy's....gears?? whats all that abart"
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*Neb*
post Feb 6 2008, 11:57 PM
Post #15


Group: Members
Joined: 7-January 08
From: The lovely lake district!



QUOTE(lee67 @ Feb 6 2008, 07:04 PM) *
a ratchet strap tied round the tyre/wheel helps making a good seal, if u cant get it to work by using your hand


I've had a bit of a mare trying to get my tyres inflated. as yet, no success.....

The tyre I've been battling with is a Kenda Blue Groove on a Sun Singletrack rim. The problem seems to be that there is lots of room between the 20" inner tube and the bead of the tyre. Is this because the rims are wider than normal rims? On the stans website it suggests for some rims wider than standard to use 'velox' tape on them. Would this force the bead of the tyre into the contact with the rim? Is this what I need to do?

I've tried using string and such to force the bead down into the rim, but it doesn't seem to work. I've a wee compressor thingy (not a hell of a lot of flow output though) but that doesn't seem to do the trick. I could take it down to the garage, but I'd rather not look a bit of a fool while hugging a dripping soapy bike wheel....!

Any suggestions?!

Cheers
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Paul
post Feb 7 2008, 10:38 AM
Post #16


Group: Members
Joined: 29-July 04
From: Brumajum



Not sure if the tape Doug used on my mavic 729`s was velox tape? It was probably a little thicker.It was like very thin Polystyrene with one sticky side so the same principal as the velox. Try it and if it doesnt work with one layer dry off the rim and try 2 layers? I`m sure this will work.

You wont get many rims wider than the 729`s


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*Neb*
post Feb 7 2008, 12:19 PM
Post #17


Group: Members
Joined: 7-January 08
From: The lovely lake district!



QUOTE(Paul @ Feb 7 2008, 10:38 AM) *
Not sure if the tape Doug used on my mavic 729`s was velox tape? It was probably a little thicker.It was like very thin Polystyrene with one sticky side so the same principal as the velox. Try it and if it doesnt work with one layer dry off the rim and try 2 layers? I`m sure this will work.

You wont get many rims wider than the 729`s


The tape you descripe sounds like draft excluder tape. I'll have a look for some on my way home... I've still got the original rim tape, so I'll maybe try that first to see if it will help. Was the tape put on over the 20" tube or underneath it?

Cheers
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Jarl
post Feb 7 2008, 12:55 PM
Post #18


Group: Members
Joined: 12-November 06
From: Bath/Hampshire (uni/home)



You should have rim tape on anyway; put the extra tape on underneath the 20" tube.


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wildrnes
post Feb 7 2008, 01:04 PM
Post #19


Group: Validating
Joined: 19-September 07



you say i could take the rim tape off put the tube on and put rim tape on top of the tube, i can see how that could work as i think (well know) the rim tape has moved
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Tony F
post Feb 7 2008, 01:34 PM
Post #20


Group: Members
Joined: 16-November 04
From: West Lancs



QUOTE(wildrnes @ Feb 7 2008, 01:04 PM) *
you say i could take the rim tape off put the tube on and put rim tape on top of the tube, i can see how that could work as i think (well know) the rim tape has moved


No. Rim tape (of whatever type - I used electrician's PVC tape) first, then the 20" tube. Did you get the latex glue stuff that's supposed to seal the tyre/tube interface. I didn't need to use it, but it might help in your case.
Why'd you take the tyre off to put the latex in?

Tony


--------------------
Q: How does he stay upright at that speed?
A: He doesn't. Well not always. And the consequences have been horrendous!
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