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> Ghetto Tubeless Checklist
Ibbo
post Feb 14 2008, 09:07 AM
Post #41


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QUOTE(bobosola @ Feb 13 2008, 10:00 PM) *
These look interesting. I think the Eskar is too chunky for my XC stuff, but the Sauserwind Control 2Bliss looks worth a punt for me, but the bit about "whole new design that uses TT casing with a special UST bead" makes me think. Does this mean I need UST rims or can I go ghetto with them on ordinary rims? I'm still a bit confused about what I can mix and match think.gif

The photos on the website are a bit misleading.The Eskar isn't as chunky as it looks!!I had Nevegals before and they were much chunkier as are Panaracer cinders.The Eskars say they are 2.3 but look more like a High roller 2.1!I'd say the tread Pattern is somewhere between a high roller and a cinder.Its going to be interesting to see how they cope in the good old Peak District


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Gareth
post Feb 14 2008, 09:58 AM
Post #42


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They wouldn't work for me on rock, I eat tyres like that for breakfast. whistling.gif

The narrower the tyre, the more pressure you have to run to avoid rim damage. Sure tubeless will let you get away without pinch punctures but ultimately bashing your rim on square edges will damage your rim and the rim strip resulting in a failure. If you run the higher pressure needed the tyres bounce off the rocks at speed coining the term 'pinballing' to describe the way you ricochet down the trail.

Tyre size is a function of rider weight, speed/style and riding location. Heavier riders need larger tyres unless they are slow or have unusual skills. Some riders will find that they have to get fatter tyres as they progress and their speeds increase.


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Spiderman
post Mar 17 2008, 08:51 AM
Post #43


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Joined: 11-January 06
From: Hertfordshire



I see a bmx inner tube,witha removable valve core is reccomended.Can anyone advise where I can buy such a tube,preferably online?

What do I need to remove the core?


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*Neb*
post Mar 17 2008, 11:34 AM
Post #44


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Joined: 7-January 08
From: The lovely lake district!



QUOTE(Spiderman @ Mar 17 2008, 08:51 AM) *
I see a bmx inner tube,witha removable valve core is reccomended.Can anyone advise where I can buy such a tube,preferably online?

What do I need to remove the core?


I think most schrader valves are removable, I've only had problems with one, the removable bit was too deep for the core remover to reach.

The core remover I used was on Justridingalong.co.uk it doubles as a valve cap too.

I bought some 20" tubes off chain reaction that worked well, if thats any help?
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Spiderman
post Mar 17 2008, 03:52 PM
Post #45


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From: Hertfordshire



These ones?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=20478

The only other 20" tubes ,on crc were Schwalbe Presta ones.


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1gearnoidea
post Mar 17 2008, 04:04 PM
Post #46


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i get mine off ebay 5 for 2..will try and dig out a link m8

here u go
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-x-20-BMX-Bicycle-I...1742.m153.l1262

i then bought the wheel milk from justridingalong rolleyes.gif


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*Neb*
post Mar 17 2008, 04:39 PM
Post #47


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QUOTE(Spiderman @ Mar 17 2008, 03:52 PM) *
These ones?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=20478

The only other 20" tubes ,on crc were Schwalbe Presta ones.


They are the ones I used, they seem to be ok except they valve stem isn't threaded and needs a bit of a push to get through my drilled rims. Threaded would be better I think.

The link Lee posted looks grand, cheaper, threaded and in stock compared to CRC!

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1gearnoidea
post Mar 17 2008, 04:46 PM
Post #48


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yep for the price, there great..had no issues in 6 months of constant use....on a diff note, as anyone ever succesfully sealed pan' fire xc pro's with the asb casing...cos ive just fitted 2 to my hardtail and was gonna try to ghetto those, but have heard negatives about em>??


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Jarl
post Mar 17 2008, 05:32 PM
Post #49


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From: Bath/Hampshire (uni/home)



QUOTE(lee67 @ Mar 17 2008, 04:46 PM) *
yep for the price, there great..had no issues in 6 months of constant use....on a diff note, as anyone ever succesfully sealed pan' fire xc pro's with the asb casing...cos ive just fitted 2 to my hardtail and was gonna try to ghetto those, but have heard negatives about em>??


I had a go with a fireXC, no luck. However, I was doing it on my own with a cheapo pump- try it yourself before you decide.

As for negatives with pana's, apparently they roll off the rim more readily than most, which is something you may want to consider.


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1gearnoidea
post Mar 17 2008, 05:44 PM
Post #50


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yeah read about the tyre rolling off rim, when burping etc and porous sidewalls..just wondered if anyone had any success with em...i was gonna get some conti verts'...but in the end bought these fire pro's with a pimp my ride red band lol


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Jarl
post Mar 17 2008, 06:12 PM
Post #51


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If they were pink they'd match your old old full susser wink.gif


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1gearnoidea
post Mar 17 2008, 07:09 PM
Post #52


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haha...actually all those who bothered to do a forum ride, saw it was red in real life tongue.gif agree.gif wink.gif


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Jarl
post Mar 17 2008, 08:20 PM
Post #53


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From: Bath/Hampshire (uni/home)



QUOTE(lee67 @ Mar 17 2008, 07:09 PM) *
haha...actually all those who bothered to do a forum ride, saw it was red in real life tongue.gif agree.gif wink.gif


Fingers crossed I'll be off to Sheffield uni later this year, so I can show you how it's done on a peaks ride wink.gif

Until then I'll just wave a pointy thing at you duel.gif laugh.gif


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1gearnoidea
post Mar 17 2008, 08:23 PM
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nice one m8, gis a shout when ur up here...and im sure we can show u some real riding stupidlyhappy.gif duel.gif


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bobosola
post Apr 27 2008, 07:38 PM
Post #55


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Joined: 22-June 06
From: Locks Heath, Hampshire



QUOTE(Ibbo @ Feb 14 2008, 10:07 AM) *
The Eskars say they are 2.3 but look more like a High roller 2.1!I'd say the tread Pattern is somewhere between a high roller and a cinder.Its going to be interesting to see how they cope in the good old Peak District

Well, I finally bought a pair of Eskar Control 2Bliss tyres on Ibbo's advice to replace my winter Trailrakers and they went on like a dream. They were fairly tight to get over the rims (unlike my last ones) but what a difference it makes using a tyre designed to be tubeless! I had one hand on the tyre pressing down on the valve area and got a seal within about 3 strokes of the track pump. After my last heart-attack inducing doomed attempt this was pure joy. No bubbling at all. No swishing and dishing needed, just an immediate seal with no effort required. Looking forward to the next ride to check them out now!

One small tip: last time I tried this I lost quite a bit of wheel milk due to the tyre being slightly flattened where it was touching the ground making the milk overflow out. This time I had the wheel suspended clear of the ground and I barely lost a drop.


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torihada
post May 9 2009, 07:31 PM
Post #56


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Right I've just attempted to get a tubeless ready bontager dry x onto a mavic crossride rim; snapped one tyre lever, the 20" tube is sitting pissed with only a about 5 mm overlapping in one place. I can get about 40psi in before air starts leaking around the valve; as if I've puntured the tube where it connects to the valve.

Question; do I stick in the no flats latex and hope it seals or just bin it all. My biggest fear is in the event of needing to get the tyre off on the trail I wont be able to get the tyre off; it will not come off with anything less than steel levers. Jeez this is aint worth the hassle. Forking out shed loads of dosh for tubeless rims no longer seems like an insane idea. I have never had such a tough time getting a tyre on; first time I've bust a lever. banghead.gif


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Jarl
post May 9 2009, 07:48 PM
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How much rim tape are you running?

Some tyres are just tight, most I've worked with are pretty loose, and I dislike tough tyres, as on the side of a trail you need to be able to get it off with a twig, if necessary!! Maybe try a different tyre altogether, or tubes if you're set on the dry x.


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torihada
post May 9 2009, 07:55 PM
Post #58


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Went with the bontys as they're tubeless ready and had no probs with bonty big earls running tubeless; but thats on bonty tubeless rims. I've got two layers of rim tape. Going to take one layer out. Got the tyres on fine today with tubes. Think its going to be tubes for tomorrows ride at least. The tyres will be tight due to the bead as they're tubeless. Not the the thing to do night before a ride. doh.gif

Update: Tried again with only one layer of rim tape (as came on wheel). No joy.
Tubes back in. Took steel levers to get the tyre off, and at one point I feared for the rim. I got the tyre back on with bare hands when I put tubes back in. So it is not possible to ghetto a Bontrager Dry X onto a Mavic Crossride rim. And if you did manage to get it on without buggering the 20" inner you'd not want to put a tube in trailside. I have a feeling a non-tubeless ready tyre would work better. I got a perfect seal around the rim, but thats due to the bonty tyre bead. I am contemplating trying a bonty rim strip in there and removeable valves.


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Tony F
post May 9 2009, 08:59 PM
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If these tyres are going on ok with tubes, but not with the 20" tube in place, then it looks like its the latter that's the problem. Every tubeless-ready tyre I've tried to ghetto has given me the same problem, including the Big Earl wets (folding bead) I've put on this week (DT X430 rims - not tubeless ready...tight bastards they are!). But they sealed instantly!

Two suggestions: lots of soapy water to help the tyre slide over the tube. If this doesn't work I've resorted to shoving the last little section (2-3") of the tube inside the rim, then levering the tyre on, and working the tube back out before seating the tyre. Works every time, and the soapy water helps here too.

I was also concerned about getting tyres off trailside. Forget doing it by hand, carry one decent lever to supplement the ones made of chewing gum you usually carry. You'll bu**er the 20" tube for sure, but so what when you're putting a get-you-home tube in? I've only had to do it once in two years. Actually, Doug did it now I think about it; he has this humungous tyre lever you know... sleep.gif

Its a faff setting up I agree, but I wouldn't go back to tubes except in an emergency.


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Gareth
post May 9 2009, 09:28 PM
Post #60


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I run just stretched electrical (insulating tape) as a rim strip under the 20" tube, some rims actually need the rim strip thickened, most need just thin tape or the tyre is very tight. think.gif


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