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> Wheel build advice Mavic XM317 Disc
Suggsey
post Mar 3 2009, 08:31 PM
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From: Nuneaton



I am canvassing opinion from you guys and gals I am having a new front wheel built on a Hope ProII 20mm through axle hub for the Coiler. I am now back down to near the 17 stone mark and anticipate shedding a stone in the next couple of months. The LBS wheel builder I am using for this build has recomended a mavic XM317 rim with double butted DT spokes.
there are insufficient reviews about on the new XM317 Disc rim as it replaced the older model.
It is light at 460g and is much lighter than the Sun Ringle Singletrack rim that I was riding (540g) which never went out of true and didnt dent despite some severe abuse.
The wheel builder said he would rebuild the old rim but was concerned as it had already been well stressed that re stressing it agian may make for premature failure and with it being the front wheel a big crash.
Do I spend that little bit extra and have them order in say an EN321 disc rim at 570g or EX721 at 590g instead as Mavic bill these rims as suited to freeride ie heavy me crashing through boulder fields on 6" travel bike or doing the odd downhill run with air?
Opinions please..................................
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Speedy Al
post Mar 3 2009, 08:51 PM
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dont buy MAVIC haha loved them till this weekend when i saw most of the spokes had removed themselfs from the hub after a difficult landing on some poor sods front wheel. naughty.gif


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Suggsey
post Mar 3 2009, 09:06 PM
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From: Nuneaton



No Al its on a Hope Pro2 none of that straight head spoke business for me.
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SammyC
post Mar 3 2009, 09:14 PM
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My 721 has been pretty bombproof, but then saying that the 717 on the front is still true even though it was the wheel I learnt to jump on at 14st. Ok, used to crash a lot rather than jump! laugh.gif
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Mad Pierre
post Mar 3 2009, 09:28 PM
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From: Melton Mowbray



Can't think why any new wheel build wouldn't be a ust rim...?


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Suggsey
post Mar 3 2009, 09:50 PM
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From: Nuneaton



I hear what you are saying and I did think about it briefly but I am not entirely convinced by the tubeless thin. i have been on a few rides now where tubeless runners have ripped side walls or dinged rims and (a) the tyres seem to be a bitch to get on/off (cool.gif there is latex all over the place © weight penalty and you still have to carry spare tyre boots and tubes in the pack. Then there is the topping up sealant every now and again new tyres (as none of the tyres I have are UST) etc etc.
So for now until they stop making tubes, tubes it is.
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Gareth
post Mar 3 2009, 10:09 PM
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I hink the 17's are a bit risky and would get a 21 myself for those duties. If you're a good wheel truer and keep an eye on a 17 it can be strong enough but it's not really suited to the larger volume tyres also recommended... think.gif

You're wrong about tubeless it is worth the effort especially for rock munchers but also thorn magnets. There is no reason why it should be hard to remove tyres either...


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Suggsey
post Mar 3 2009, 10:18 PM
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From: Nuneaton



Thanks for that Gareth-honestly all the people with tubeless have a hell of a game from what I have seen and tried to help repair/retube.
I will ring up the bike shop tomorrow and change the rim that they are going to use I would hate it to still notbe up to the job and crumple beneath me dizzy.gif
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Rod
post Mar 3 2009, 11:29 PM
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From: N.Wales (Flintshire)



I can't fault either Mavic 3 / 7 series rims or Hope componants.

I had broken a Hope axle on a XC Hub and they replaced it with no quibble and totally FOC.

As for the rims, I have 729 & 321s, I'm 16 stone out of the bath and the 321s especially have astounded me with their resilience. Personally I'd go for a wider rim than 17s so as to not restrict you too much on tyre size.

Rod

EDIT

Blimey, whilst formulating my thoughts and typing everyone else has beaten me to it. So... see above... I concure

Rod


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Jarl
post Mar 3 2009, 11:44 PM
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I'm 12.5 stone. I've set a merlin built 719 out of true on the back (though the front 719 was true when I removed it), now running a 521 (the old, good version) on the front. One of the reasons for going so big on the front was so I could confidently run a big tyre up front, the 17's can be a bit restrictive in that regard.

A 317 would be nigh on suicide IMO, though a 719 or 21 should be able to handle it nicely. I think the 7's are stronger than the 3's? Also, the stickers on the EX721's look damn good IMO.....


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Doug
post Mar 3 2009, 11:48 PM
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From: Wrexham, N.E.Wales.



My recomendation would be going the UST route with 819's

QUOTE(Suggsey @ Mar 3 2009, 09:50 PM) *
(a) the tyres seem to be a bitch to get on/off

Not once you work out/are told how to do it properly. Getting normal tyres on and off a UST rim is easier than a tyre and tube on/off a normal rim as you don't have to worry about trapping the tube.
QUOTE(Suggsey @ Mar 3 2009, 09:50 PM) *
there is latex all over the place

Fair point although I've only had it happen once in 3 years.
QUOTE(Suggsey @ Mar 3 2009, 09:50 PM) *
weight penalty and you still have to carry spare tyre boots and tubes in the pack. Then there is the topping up sealant every now and again new tyres (as none of the tyres I have are UST) etc etc.

There's no weight penalty unless you go for the full UST tyres. Use your current tyres with sealant, the sealant will definitely weigh no more than a tube and probably a bit less. The stuff in your pack still weighs the same as it did when you had tubes in your tyres. I used to carry two spare tubes when I used tubes with tubeless I only carry one as the chances of badly ripping two tyres on the same ride are minimal, the worst ride I've had for punctures since the move to tubeless was when I ripped a tyre early in a Snowdon ride and then suffered 3 pinchflats once I'd put the tube in. Topping up every few months takes minutes.

If your determined to be a Luddite then 321's are great all round rims and are designed to be abused on a bike like the Coiler.


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Mad Pierre
post Mar 4 2009, 08:04 AM
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From: Melton Mowbray



I've never had a problem with getting UST tyres on or off using just my bare hands.

I don't have a problem with latex topping up/getting everywhere cuz I don't use it! It's not needed in a proper UST setup.

Why not get a UST rim anyway? If you are not converted you can run a normal tyre and tube anyway.....


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Gareth
post Mar 4 2009, 10:34 AM
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Joined: 28-July 04



One of the advantages of proper UST tyres is that they have more rubber in the carcass (which makes them heavy) but they are more bombproof for that. Myself I prefer something a bit lighter for the volume and trade off the chance of a cut in the tyre against the weight. It all depends on how heavy you are , your riding style and where you ride. I'm eleven and a half stone but ride aggressively on sharp rocks in the Lakes, Wales and elsewhere so I need big but not too heavy tyres.

Ghetto has some advantages over UST (Mostly lower weight and more flexibility in the tyre carcass) and is cheap as chips (once you have a compressor). Some riders really don't need it though and they tend to be at the lighter end of the scale and/or ride more slowly and/or with more finesse, plus riding with medium rather than super light tyres and tubes. Many of the riders on here will however get faster, travel more to the mountains and generally 'up their game' at which point tubeless will suit them better. Remember tubeless 'feels' better to ride and improves grip as well as all the puncture resistance and rolling resistance arguments. sneaky.gif


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:: Xiphon ::
post Mar 4 2009, 10:37 AM
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Joined: 31-March 08
From: Preston



I'd always opt for the wider rim, so it would be 321 over 317. To me it's more important to run a wide tyre/rim combination, for that extra stability.

I found I used to 'fold' tyres over the edge of narrow rims when cornering a bit too fast, even with 2.1" tyres on 321s. Quite a scary sight when your front tyre is folded 90' the wrong way!

My current wheelset is some very very wide (36mm!!) Halo Combats laced to Hadley and Hope hubs, with 2.3" Specialized Control tyres.

Ali


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goog
post Mar 4 2009, 01:45 PM
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I've just gone tubless on Ripley using normal tyres on tubless rims .... again. The first time was on Hilda with crossmax xl's and maxxis advantage tyres + wheel milk + compressor + soapy suds ........ job done. This time on Ripley with bonty rhythm lite wheels and maxxis ardent tyres + stans + track pump - no suds ........ job done. I'd go tubeless on Cheryl too but, the folding nobby nics are as baggy as Nora Batty's tights and wont seat properly

oops nearly forgot - I've got xm321's on Houlihan and they've been bomb proof (4 years service) and are booked for another days uplift roughness this month ph34r.gif
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Gezzza
post Mar 4 2009, 02:45 PM
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From: Hampshire



QUOTE(goog @ Mar 4 2009, 01:45 PM) *
I've just gone tubless on Ripley using normal tyres on tubless rims .... again. The first time was on Hilda with crossmax xl's and maxxis advantage tyres + wheel milk + compressor + soapy suds ........ job done. This time on Ripley with bonty rhythm lite wheels and maxxis ardent tyres + stans + track pump - no suds ........ job done. I'd go tubeless on Cheryl too but, the folding nobby nics are as baggy as Nora Batty's tights and wont seat properly

oops nearly forgot - I've got xm321's on Houlihan and they've been bomb proof (4 years service) and are booked for another days uplift roughness this month ph34r.gif


A Baggy tire will seat my RaceKings are very very baggy a co2 pump and suds did the trick.
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goog
post Mar 4 2009, 03:01 PM
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QUOTE(Gezzza @ Mar 4 2009, 02:45 PM) *
A Baggy tire will seat my RaceKings are very very baggy a co2 pump and suds did the trick.


I tried my nobbys with a compressor + suds ........... no good
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Scoob
post Jul 19 2009, 02:47 PM
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QUOTE(goog @ Mar 4 2009, 04:01 PM) *
I tried my nobbys with a compressor + suds ........... no good

Took me 6 weeks o get Nobby Nic's to inflate ... CO2 did it eventually, along with some 22mm rim tape.
Real pain overall getting it to work i have to say. And with the amount of fluid and rim tape I needed I have to wonder if my wheels are now heavier than they were before.
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