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MTB Britain > Mountain Biking > General Mountain Biking
jammy111
I'm looking to buy new tyres and im not sure what size to buy. I currently run 2.1 kenda komodos but im looking for something specifically for use at trail centres that offers more grip. I noticed that the marin HT's designed for trail use have 2.3 tyres on and wondered if these would be a good idea?
Also what would you choose between kenda nevegals, panaracer fire xc pro's and maxxis high rollers? These are the three that i have narrowed my choice down to. Just need to pick one of them and pick a size.

Thanks
DrBike
A few Q's ...

What bike have you got?
What width are your rims?
Which trail centres?
Do you ride aggressively or go for a smoother line?

Be prepared to get as many different answers as you get replies smile.gif
MilitantGraham
Another question...

How heavy are you ?

I'm a bit of a salad dodger, ride the biggest tyres that will fit in my frame, run them at 45psi, and I still dent my rims every now and then on rocky downhills.

A lighter rider picking a better line could get away with narrower, lighter tyres.
jammy111
Right here is some answers for you guys-

-ive got a mongoose tyax elite HT, 19 inch frame
-front rim is alex td-24 which i think is 17mil. rear is mavic en321 which is 21mil wide.
-trail centres are hamsterley, kielder etc etc
- my line is whatever looks the best. i do tend to go the for rock gardens and drop offs rather than avoiding them though- so id probably say aggressive (aggressive enough to have made me fall off and break myself the other other day).
- i weigh 10stone something. about 68kg.
addict
masseeeeeeeve!!!

I run 2.5 minnions at about 35psi. I ride aggressive and like it when it goes downwardsly.

Nevegals - I have had and flatted constantly, but they were only single ply. On the flip side I run single ply maxxis minnions on my hardtail and have never had a problem with them....

couple of mates ride high rollers and swear by em and bein maxxis they would get my count too.

one of the lads we ride with used to run panaracers that came with his mongoose canaan and had them swapped out for being a bit skitchy and not really suitable for the more aggressive stuff.

so i would personally go with the high rollers.

PS - dam good call on the mongoose!! You'll find a good few of us here ride Team 'Goose, me being one of them. Absoloutely love em, proper fun bikes to ride.
jammy111
ha, tbh i dont like it atm. but that cos its a cheap piece of crap. was 300 when i bought it and i wasnt really into the whole mtb thing back then (May 08) i just bought it cos i needed a bike.

However i have added a new saddle, new rear wheel and literally just bought some new forks for it in an attempt to make it more adept at tackling some of the technical stuff. So ive spent about 200 on it so far- (gradually building it up into a relatively decent specced bike, next on the list are hydro brakes). Im hoping the tora 318's i just won on ebay stupidlyhappy.gif will be a massive improvement on the suntour xcm's that came stock.

Oh also on the to buy list are some dmr v8's; after my crash on tues i decided that im gonna switch back to flats for the trail centres as i dont feel spd's are really that important when you are only doing 15km.

Also to add more questions to the post, is there a limit to what you can ride on a hard tail / how fast you can ride it? I know im new to mtb but i feel pretty comfortable on red trails for 95% of the time and tend to rag it for this period. However there are parts on the trail (usually marked by that ! sign) that i literally have to get off and walk down as i dont see any way that i could get my bike down it without falling off (its just too steep/ rocky). Will being able to tackle this stuff come with time? will having full suss make it a lot easier? any tips?
Jarl
There are some things that are unrideable, but for the most part FS allows for more margin of error before throwing you off. If you have the skillz (and they'll come with time and practice and tuition, don't worry about that) then pretty much anything a FS will get you over you can do on a HT. The best general advice is relax and trust the bike. As long as you don't jam the brakes on or tense up, you'll be able to get over almost anything.

p.s: tora 318's are an exceptional fork for the price; good choice!
addict
boo, sounds like u need to make some alterations to your bike good sir, but sounds like u are on track. dont fret!! its how u ride that counts!!

suntour are renowned for making forks for the lower end of the market. The Tora's will be an absoloutely huge difference, so you have that to really look forward to for sure!!

new 'fatter' wheels again will add more grip and a smoother ride depending on the size. 2.35's are ideal for aggressive trail riding.

right, u also have a 110ml stem. thats quite a long xc stem. get a shorter one. something around 70ml perhaps. this will make the steering sharper and more stable at speed. making the bike more suited for aggressive riding.

to go with ur new stem. get some longer bars.( make sure the bar girth and clamp size of the stem are the same!!) you have 685ml bars which is ok, but i run 710ml bars on a small bike ( 16.5" - tho slightly different geometry to a hardtail) at 5'9. they are wide but very very stable at quicker speeds.

I think that should pretty much set you up for the more 'hardcore' side of things. flat pedals are a good idea but you've got that covered already wink.gif

as for your question in repsonse to a full susser. yes it would make things easier, but I rode the bollox off my hardtail ( specialized rockhopper 100ml travel) for 18 months before i got a full susser, cos i truly knew where my riding was taking me in regards to my style and what i wanted from a full squidger by then.
jammy111
aweseome thanks for that addict. so fat tyres, new stem/bars, acquire some more skill and im sorted for a year or two until it will probably be full suss time!
jammy111
whats the difference between single ply and dual ply? dont know which one to buy?
Jarl
Single ply is lighter and rolls better. Dual ply punctures less easily and is supposedly more stable at high speed.

Single ply, here.
jammy111
singly ply high roller 2.35's it is then. now to find the cheapest on the net!

ok CRC seem pretty well priced so they will do. Do i got for supertacky front and the harder maxx pro rear. Or supertacky F+R??
Jarl
Depends how much grip you want and how easily you want the rear to break away. Personally I'd go for super tacky front and harder rear because the rolling resistance will be silly with sticky F+R, but if you don't care about going up, or even along the flat much, then go for supertacky on both ends smile.gif
addict
QUOTE(jammy111 @ Apr 23 2009, 11:56 PM) *
singly ply high roller 2.35's it is then. now to find the cheapest on the net!

ok CRC seem pretty well priced so they will do. Do i got for supertacky front and the harder maxx pro rear. Or supertacky F+R??


super tack up front and maxx pro out back for both my bikes. wink.gif

jammy111
thats what ill go for then. (addict- already on the search for a shorter stem and wider bars!)
addict
QUOTE(jammy111 @ Apr 24 2009, 01:10 PM) *
thats what ill go for then. (addict- already on the search for a shorter stem and wider bars!)


good call bro. like I said I run 710's and they are plenty wide enough. you can get some even longer but it starts to get a bit silly from then on.

when u getting ur forks?
jammy111
hopefully within the next day or 2. i won the bidding on ebay last night and paid straight away so depends how fast he/she posts them.

Some good news though. Just been down to the trauma clinic for a check up and my wrist aint broken!!! Just sprained it badly nd turned my little finger purple. The doctor i saw on tues got it wrong! Whooooo!!!! should be back on a bike within the week.
Jarl
sweet stupidlyhappy.gif

this is a good deal on bars and stem if you don't mind losing 2.5cm of width- I got it when it was holzfellar (however you spell that!) bars and stem.
addict
QUOTE(Jarl @ Apr 24 2009, 04:28 PM) *
sweet stupidlyhappy.gif

this is a good deal on bars and stem if you don't mind losing 2.5cm of width- I got it when it was holzfellar (however you spell that!) bars and stem.


sold out bro. plus maybe 40 mil is a little short to go from a 110ml stem?? I would have thought 60/70ml would have been better, but thats just me.

Jarl
QUOTE(addict @ Apr 24 2009, 05:35 PM) *
sold out bro. plus maybe 40 mil is a little short to go from a 110ml stem?? I would have thought 60/70ml would have been better, but thats just me.


Ahh, didn't notice that.

As for the stem length, never too short IMO wink.gif
jammy111
hi guys, im in the process of bartering with mad pierre for a raceface deus 70mm stem. And got my eyes on some raceface diabolous 710mm bars on ebay! unfortunately i was slightly too late on a set of fsa gravity carbon bars some guy was selling on southern downhill for 30quid, would have been a steal but oh well.
Jarl
I'd be a bit iffy about second hand DH bars. They're only meant to go for ~80 hours of DH riding, and obviously some people will sell their old ones without mentioning how old they are when they need new ones.....
jammy111
hmm, do u reckon the extra 25mil is worth it if ive got 285mm already? i personally cant see it having a huge effect (but im probably wrong)

what about this. will 40mm be too short?
Jarl
TBH, 25mm won't make a massive difference. When you're talking 60mm+, then it'll be noticeable. I'd say anything over 660 with a decent rise (none of that "low rise" rubbish) should be suitable.



As for stem lengths, shorter the better IMO, but I ride a bike with a long top tube. I'm on 40mm after starting out at 100, then going to 60 (thought I was really pushing the boat out there!) and then I figured "if 60 is better than 100, then is 40 better than 60?". The answer is "yes", depending on your version of "better" tongue.gif

With such a short stem, my front end is insanely light, which I love. Wheelying up hills isn't a problem as such, because I enjoy doing it wink.gif
:: Xiphon ::
On the Pitch: running stock 2.3" Specialized Control tyres F+R. Narrow front rim, and wider D321 rear.

On the 222: running 2.7" SuperTacky Maxxis High Rollers F+R. Massive 36mm rim, makes these very wide tyres!!
Jase
If you're still looking for bars and stem these are a good deal:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Outland-Freeride-H...s/dp/B000ZLNKZG

Not one of the best known names but they make decent gear. If you've not heard of them before they own the VPP patent.

I've been happy with ADvantage 2.25's on my bikes for the last 6 months or so, I'm about 10stone and have about 25psi in them. They've coped well with the dark peak and a couple of trail centres.
*Neb*
On-one are doing a sale of FSA stuff at the moment. I've just splashed out on some Gravity DH Carbon bars, for 50 down from 150 (710mm wide, 220g). There are lots of other bars there, mostly at half price or more! - Definately worth a look.

I'd agree with addict in that a 70/80mm stem would be best initially, you might want to get even shorter as you go faster...

As for tyres, I use 2.1 Kenda Nevegals/Blue groove and whilst the grip is fine, I am a wee bit concerned about the thin sidewalls. I'll probably go for single ply 2.35 High Rollers once I've used up the kendas. but I've just picked up some dual ply tyres for the more DH days, the alps mainly. Also have a look at ghetto tubeless, its a bit of a faff initially, but worth it once you've settled on which tyres you'll be running for a while. (its a pain to constantly change tyres)

Get some cheap and cheerful stuff first, it'd certainly get you thinking about what you want without the initial outlay of cash... You can always buy the fancy stuff once you know what you want.
smf_12
26x2.3 because thats what tyres my bike take stupidlyhappy.gif
_tom_
Having gotten used to using narrow/fast tyres (High Roller rear, Moto RT front) on my old bike, getting on the new bike today with wider (2.1 or 2.2 I think) knobbly tyres is a bit weird. Accelleration and top speed seem to have gone down quite a bit, I dont like it as much tbh. I havent really ridden them on any particularly rough off road though, only some smooth bridleways, so ymmv. I think I may be getting rid of these in favour of High Rollers depending how I get on with them on some rougher stuff
Dolbe
I'm running Kenda Nevegals DTC 2.35 front n rear thanks to Addict. They have improved my grip over the stock navegals that came with the goose.
bodger_the_biker
Ive been running 2.5 Maxxis minion dual plys since november and now im switching back to 2.4 conti mountain kings and leaving the minons for DH duties. I cant wait to see what losing 1kg+ off my wheels feels like dance.gif
addict
QUOTE(Dolbe666 @ May 11 2009, 05:08 PM) *
I'm running Kenda Nevegals DTC 2.35 front n rear thanks to Addict. They have improved my grip over the stock navegals that came with the goose.



U KNOWS IT!!

2.5 maxxis minions for me please.
bodger_the_biker
Well ive just done in both my front and rear mountain kings jumping a set of stairs so its back to the minions for me
Suggsey
Maxxis Minnions 2.35 kevlar bead single plys front and rear on both hardtail and full suss. Switch sometimes with an old set of Conti Pro Protection Verts but they are pants for grip on loose/shiny Cannock cobbles or anything that resembles greasy.
Have just nearly puched a hole clean through the rear tyre sidewall of the single ply Minnion on the descent of Jacobs ladder the other week-on one of the waterbars down towards Barber Booth banghead.gif
Robs
QUOTE(bodger_the_biker @ May 19 2009, 08:33 PM) *
Well ive just done in both my front and rear mountain kings jumping a set of stairs so its back to the minions for me

Sounds final, what did you do to them?
SinfulHedgehog
Personally, I use a 2.1 at the back and a 2.25 at the front.
bodger_the_biker
The rear tire has a spilts around a number of tread blocks the that were two much for the sealent to even stand any sort of chance of sealing(had a spare tube anyway), the front spilt on at edge of two tread blocks but sealed up fortunately. I think doing the landing the drop on to the sharp edges off the steps at two low a pressure just put far to much stress on them.
MilitantGraham
Ignore my earlier comment about running the biggest tyres that will fit in my frame.
I've just swapped to 2.0 Race Kings and the big improvement in weight and rolling resistance outweighs any slight decrease in grip for me.
_tom_
Good to hear Graham, I'm probably gonna go for some Race Kings after being recommended them in another thread I started smile.gif Are they quite narrow for their size or is 2" accurate?
Gezzza
QUOTE(todge @ May 24 2009, 08:40 PM) *
Good to hear Graham, I'm probably gonna go for some Race Kings after being recommended them in another thread I started smile.gif Are they quite narrow for their size or is 2" accurate?



The 2.2's (55.6mm) are bigger than the Maxxis Minion DH-F 2.35 (52.6mm) thats across the knobs



_tom_
Yeah just read that in the thread you linked me to.. have also read they're not great on the front and that the mountain king works better with a race king in the rear.
Gezzza
QUOTE(todge @ May 24 2009, 08:48 PM) *
Yeah just read that in the thread you linked me to.. have also read they're not great on the front and that the mountain king works better with a race king in the rear.



I think they work great front and rear i run slightly less pressure on the front
MilitantGraham
They are 48mm on a Mavic 317 or 717 rim.
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